September. I need a holiday. I know it’s not long since I was in Italy in the boiling heat, but as the leaves start to turn brown and the duvet goes back in its cover, I feel the need to go somewhere brighter before the proper onset of winter. As previously mentioned, I turn this yearning into reality, jump on the British Airways website like a many-fingered demon, and book to go to the Canaries.
I’ve never visited the Canaries. Friends have recommended all of the various islands at different times. I settle on Lanzarote, primarily because there are suitable flights on the dates which are my only option to escape, but also because I find a couple of small-group walks that I can join to allow me to explore volcanoes and cliff paths.
I have the inevitable wrestle with my conscience and my still-pretty-tight pursestrings (neither of which stand a chance, really) as I choose my seat – and karma visits on the outward flight as I am positioned immediately in front of a large and grumpy man with a most unpleasant cough and alongside a family including a screamy toddler. Serves me right, of course. But I make the best of it – I read a whole paperback in self-defence.
My flight is slightly delayed which means I arrive at the same time as several other plane-loads of Brits, causing a shuffle/stop melee in the arrivals hall as we wend our way disconsolately around the plastic barriers like sheep at a market, towards the automatic passport gates for Non-EU arrivals and the little man in his hutch with his rubber stamp and suspicious glare. All the while gazing sadly at the tiny dribble of people waltzing through the EU channel.
Strangely, once I leave the airport building, I don’t interact with any other English people until it is time to catch the transport back to the airport from outside my hotel four days later. There are a couple of Scots on a tour coach and some sweary Northern Irish lads on a camel – but I’m getting ahead of myself. I’m guessing that the British by and large prefer the resorts whilst I am staying in the capital Arrecife, conveniently close to the airport and ideal for day-trip pick-ups.
Day 1 – Breakfast in the hotel. It dawns on me immediately that the small amount of Italian I have learned on Duolingo will be of absolutely no use at all here, because this is a Spanish island and the people speak Spanish which is not the same as Italian, even if I thought it might be similar. (If I had thought at all, which I truly hadn’t.) My exposure to Spanish has been limited to Daughter J’s now-quite-a-long-time-ago GCSE vocabulary tests, usually done whilst trying to complete umpteen other domestic tasks at the same time – and to the occasional corporate hotel where I would have been conversing in efficient business English with an occasional “Si” or “Gracias” for effect.
My feeble attempts throughout the week are generally greeted with smiles and an English menu/calculator showing price. I manage but am somewhat ashamed.
This first morning, I eagerly strut around the town of Arrecife. There is not a huge amount to see (or I miss it, if there is) but I visit the castle which is free because their computer isn’t working (I leave a few pesetas – I mean Euros), and take a look at the marina and a few shops. It is then time to take a dip in the sea. I wonder if I can “borrow” a towel from the hotel’s rooftop pool? No, they don’t seem to have them, so I purchase the least lurid beach-towel I can find in the little shops along the front and, ready swimming-costumed, I strip off my modesty layers and sandals and fair race my way to the sea. Where I stop. The sand ends at the edge of the sea and underfoot in the shallows it is sharp volcanic rock; pointy bits and slippery bits and other nasty bits in-between. Furtive glances left and right reveal other hesitant bathers, hopping or swaying or retreating at the discomfort. And, of course, a couple of clever-clogs who have come equipped with rubber shoes. As if I was going to add those to my already heavy suitcase, what with the walking boots and all.
My over-active imagination already has me in hospital with a broken wrist or two and severe abrasions – on the first day, with none of my trips completed. Foolish old bat – why didn’t you just stay safely at home? Or take a dip in the tiny hotel pool? Well, that’s because you like travelling and you enjoy swimming in the sea far more than in a pool – and for goodness sake, just get a grip, crawl if you have to (I do) and lunge into full immersion as soon as depth allows.
I confess to staying in the water somewhat longer than is necessary to achieve the distance of remedial-level breaststroke originally intended, simply because I cannot work out how to make a graceful exit. The Atlantic is not particularly warm, and eventually of course I have to emerge, so I opt not to wait “gracefully” for the tide to rise onto the sandy bit of beach (just as well because said tide is still on the way out and it will be dark by then) but rather to adopt a peculiar crab-like scuttling manoeuvre. By devious sleight of all my extremities, I make my exit completely unobserved (achieved in my mind by closing my own eyes, so I cannot see anyone observing me) and saunter nonchalantly to my rather eye-catching turquoise (but definitely not emblazoned with multicoloured LANZAROTE! maps, monsters or other ridiculous motifs) towel and throw myself face-down to dry off – thus once again making myself invisible to others. I find this is the best, nay the only, way of operating on a solo beach visit when both over-weight and over-white.
I repeat the sea-swimming twice more later in the week, timing it better to ensure launching can be done from sand. A facility with tide-tables is always useful – meaning that Mr J, annoyingly, is right again.
Day 1 continued – I return from the beach, tired but pleased to be all in one piece and ever-so-slightly bronzed – and a little less-slightly sandy – after my antics. As I pour myself a glass of chilled water, my phone rings. I am still in my cossie, with a light wrap on top, and also still a little damp. Nevertheless, like an idiot I take the call. And within seconds I am in a four-way conference call, with all sorts of legal and tax terms flying hither and thither as an urgent deadline looms and decisions need making. In the moment, my business head makes a fortunate reappearance and we take the decisions we need to take in a calm professional way, whilst I thank my lucky stars that this is not a video call (at least, I think it isn’t) and that I am no longer actually dripping.
Exhausted now with all the keeping up appearances I have done, I send a few choice emojis of bikinis and palm trees etc to one of the other conference call participants (my vet friend who has persuaded me to take this new Trustee role), then send a sensible email to another, and decide to eat in the hotel after all, despite earlier plans to go and explore the restaurants on the other side of town. I then double check I sent the emojis and the sensible email to the right people…
The rest of the week – goes mostly to plan.
- I join a volcano walk with a small group led by a brilliant guide called Raquel who gives explanations in French (for 8 walkers) and then in English (for me and an Irishman) – this is a great way for me to test my understanding of the French and I am rather pleased with the result. I reward myself in the afternoon with a more decorous swim and then supper in a lovely tapas bar where, in my attempts to discover a local dish, I somehow manage to eat half my body-weight in fried cheese.
- I have reluctantly pre-booked a coach trip for Day 3. I prefer small groups in minibuses but have been unable to find one which will take me all over the island. My fears are well-founded: it takes an age to pick everyone up; the coach is full to bursting; the guide is annoyingly jokey; I don’t want to ride on the camels – but the aforementioned unusually screamy Northern Irish teenagers do, so I watch from a safe distance; I don’t want to eat in the touristy restaurant on our lunch stop, but there is nowhere else to go apart from the car-park where I eventually eat my banana; the roads are in amazing condition, and there are some spectacular switch-backs to ascend and descend the volcanic slopes in the Natural Park, but the roads were made for cars and not socking great coaches – I manage not to whimper noticeably I think. This now sounds a tad unfair in the telling. By the end of the day I have seen most of the island, sampled (and purchased) some rather lovely local dessert wine, enjoyed a demonstration of the heat lurking just below the surface on one of the volcanoes with fire and steam in spectacular evidence, and gazed in awe at a beautiful lava tunnel Jameos del Agua – a definite highlight. I cannot complain, and I even warm (or at least defrost) to the guide by the time I am dropped off.
- Full day trips are tiring and I am unfortunately not able to take my weary self any further than the corner shop afterwards, resulting in a balanced supper of crisps, chocolate and fizzy pop.
- I make up for my failings in the Spanish lingo by opting to join a French group on the second of my volcano walks. The alternative is to be the only English-speaking person in an otherwise entirely German group – so I feel I am being generous in allowing them to avoid listening to everything in English as well as Deutsche just because of me. I find myself limited in small talk with my French companions – the words simply don’t come quickly enough to me these days – but we rub along ok and I have no trouble understanding the guide as there is considerable repetition from my first tour where I had been able to acquire the necessary volcanological vocab. The Corona volcano is shrouded in mist, but the Famara cliff walk is spectacular. A great experience.
- I make a second attempt to find a local restaurant serving local delicacies. Sardines, perhaps? Catch of the day? Sadly, but deliciously, I end up with Canarian potatoes and yet more cheese (this time disguised as a salad, but once again, vast quantities of baked queso). I stagger the mile back to my hotel, and ponder my clothing choices for the return flight – a size larger than on arrival perhaps.
- My return flight puts me with the same family as on the outward journey. This time they are behind me, which starts badly with exuberant kicking of my seat, but they are good sorts and this stops after a while. I manage the other inconveniences by donning my headphones and playing white noise while I devour another paperback – so I have double aeroplane noise to block out the toddler’s squawks. I also experience one of the least visually appetising dishes I have ever been served anywhere. A mushroom risotto which has to be prised from the edges of the china dish on which it is served and is mostly the consistency of rubber and the colour of a moulting otter – but of course I eat it and it tastes rather good. Plus, there is plenty of cheese on the tray for afters. In for a penny…
Home now.
I realise that I have not sung out loud for the entire time I have been away. At home I never stop. It’s weird that I seem to switch off the singing except when at home.
And more importantly – Diet begins now! Pass (on) the cheese.